A conversation at the crossroads of diplomacy, agriculture and pure pleasure opens Season 4 of Sensing Up.
Valérie welcomes Vincent Hebrail, Counsellor for Agricultural Affairs at the French Embassy in Canberra, to explore what it means to be French in Australia today—both professionally and around the table. Vincent shares insights into his role strengthening ties between France and Australia across agriculture, food, forestry and fisheries, while reflecting on how warmly he and his family have been welcomed since arriving.
Together, they celebrate the remarkable quality of Australian produce, while also touching on what is still missing from a French perspective—particularly when it comes to charcuterie and raw-milk cheeses. The episode revisits the long lobbying journey that allowed Roquefort to enter Australia, the technical and financial challenges that continue to limit other raw-milk cheeses, and why market demand must ultimately justify the effort.
The discussion then turns to the French system of geographical indications and how Australian regions—from the Barossa to Kangaroo Island—could draw inspiration from similar approaches to tell richer, more compelling stories about their food and wine.
Throughout the conversation, themes of sustainability, carbon footprint and food waste emerge, reminding us that behind every bite of cheese and sip of wine lies a complex global system—one that continues to evolve.